Providencia

1/13/20

Today we went exploring in our neighbourhood. Santiago is divided into barrios or districts. There are many to explore. Most travel sites suggest starting in Providencia – which is where our condo is located.

Today we got a late start because our jetlag and general exhaustion kept us in bed until 8:30. So we decided to focus on getting oriented in Providencia and organizing some practical things (like public transit cards, shopping, etc.). Providencia caters to upper middle-class Chileans and to South Amercian, North American, and European tourists. Tons of restos, bars, and shops. And it’s also home to the largest mall in South America – 5 or 6 levels of retail heaven or hell (depending on your orientation). 

We walked to the mall intending to check out the Jumbo supermarket on the ground floor of the mall. But, the first thing that I saw when we walked in was a Dunkin’ Donuts kiosk in front of the Jumbo. One man’s junky, sugar saturated Frankenfood, is another man’s “exotic” North American taste adventure. Kind of surreal to see how, as high street retail is imploding in North America, corporations (Forever 21, Banana Republic, Bata, Merrell, Patagonia, McDs, Burger King, Pizza Hut, etc.) have looked to places like Chile to find growth.

The Jumbo Supermarket was bigger than a US Walmart Superstore. Jumbo must be a universal word – in Holland, it’s pronounced Yu-mbo. The corporate symbol is an elephant, just so everyone understands the scale. In the Santiago Jumbo, every aisle, at least one sales assistant is standing there (paid by the makers of the products) to inform and support the consumer. Truus was looking to buy some skin cream, and there were three young women around her to provide assistance – all very helpful, polite, and sympatico. The other thing that catches your eye here is security. Security guards are everywhere in upscale stores. In the Jumbo alone, there were probably 6-8 security agents watching the entrances, the cash registers, and protecting against shoplifting. 

So far, the vibe in Santiago seems to be very chill. Though, not far away from where we’re staying, there are still protests going on after dark. During the day, there are lots of people walking around and in the cafes, and everyone we’ve asked for help or directions has been very welcoming. All except the guy on the street today wearing a Halloween Rogie Vachon hockey mask, bloody apron, and carrying 3 machetes. Truus quickly turned the corner away from Frederico the Slasher, as he jumped in front of a stopped vehicle and raised one of the knives towards the driver. Turns out that Chilean street performance art – he was a knife juggler – is a bit edgier than the busker with his dog who hangs out in front of the LCBO outlet at Yonge and Davis playing folk tunes for Boomers.